{"id":195012,"date":"2019-04-05T16:00:47","date_gmt":"2019-04-05T19:00:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.agrund.com\/?p=195012"},"modified":"2019-04-05T15:25:03","modified_gmt":"2019-04-05T18:25:03","slug":"chanel-engatando-no-mercado-masculino","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/chanel-engatando-no-mercado-masculino\/","title":{"rendered":"Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Por Let\u00edcia Santana, do Borboleta Vintage<\/p>\n<p>N\u00e3o \u00e9 de hoje que o mercado masculino est\u00e1 ganhando for\u00e7a na moda. Com a ascens\u00e3o do streetwear, os homens passaram a se interessar mais por esse universo e se tornaram n\u00e3o apenas clientes, mas f\u00e3s leais e engajados das marcas hype. Desde ent\u00e3o, a ind\u00fastria vem sofrendo uma reformula\u00e7\u00e3o e cada vez mais as grandes grifes tentam se adaptar apostando neste setor.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_195013\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-195013\" data-attachment-id=\"195013\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/chanel-engatando-no-mercado-masculino\/img_2868\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2868.jpg?fit=600%2C600&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"600,600\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2868.jpg?fit=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2868.jpg?fit=600%2C600&amp;ssl=1\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-195013\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2868.jpg?resize=600%2C600&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2868.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2868.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2868.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-195013\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?<\/p><\/div>\n<p>A Dior, por exemplo, teve sua linha masculina implementada durante a passagem de Hedi Slimane pela marca, mas s\u00f3 se tornou mais s\u00f3lida com a entrada de Van Assche em 2007. O belga foi o designer da Dior Men at\u00e9 2018, quando Kim Jones o substituiu assumindo a dire\u00e7\u00e3o criativa. Hoje, a marca francesa vive o seu melhor momento neste setor e cada vez mais faz investimentos maiores nessa etiqueta. A Louis Vuitton, por sua vez, consegue provar o gigante sucesso do streetwear gra\u00e7as \u00e0 contrata\u00e7\u00e3o de Virgil Abloh como diretor criativo da linha masculina. O fundador da Off White \u00e9 um fen\u00f4meno mundial e um dos grandes respons\u00e1veis pelo interesse dos homens pela ind\u00fastria da moda.<\/p>\n<p>E enquanto a ascens\u00e3o do menswear rolava, a Chanel sempre se manteve quieta n\u00e3o s\u00f3 sobre isso, mas tamb\u00e9m sobre v\u00e1rias tend\u00eancias do mercado contempor\u00e2neo. O tradicionalismo da marca criou uma resist\u00eancia ao novo, a impedindo de se adaptar. At\u00e9 que boatos come\u00e7aram a rolar em novembro de 2018, quando a grife apresentou o seu Pre-Fall 2019 e na cole\u00e7\u00e3o constavam dois looks masculinos (um deles, inclusive, desfilado pelo cantor Pharrell Williams).<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_195014\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-195014\" data-attachment-id=\"195014\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/chanel-engatando-no-mercado-masculino\/img_2872\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2872.jpg?fit=600%2C451&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"600,451\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2872.jpg?fit=300%2C226&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2872.jpg?fit=600%2C451&amp;ssl=1\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-195014\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2872.jpg?resize=600%2C451&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2872.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2872.jpg?resize=300%2C226&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-195014\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?<\/p><\/div>\n<p>A Chanel logo negou que estaria planejando uma linha masculina, por\u00e9m todas as suas a\u00e7\u00f5es provavam o contr\u00e1rio. A cada dia, a marca parecia estar tentando se aproximar do menswear de uma forma org\u00e2nica e muito bem calculada. Desde que Karl Lagerfeld elegeu Pharrell como embaixador, ele passou a ir aos desfiles, participar de campanhas, estrelar v\u00eddeos da grife\u2026 O relacionamento nitidamente se tornava cada vez mais pr\u00f3ximo, at\u00e9 que no \u00faltimo dia 27 de mar\u00e7o finalmente foi lan\u00e7ada a parceria entre o artista e a Chanel.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_195016\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-195016\" data-attachment-id=\"195016\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/chanel-engatando-no-mercado-masculino\/img_2897-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2897.jpg?fit=600%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"600,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2897.jpg?fit=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2897.jpg?fit=600%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-195016\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2897.jpg?resize=600%2C450&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2897.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2897.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-195016\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Essa representa a primeira collab da hist\u00f3ria da Chanel, o que deixa tudo mais ir\u00f4nico, afinal, logo de cara, o primeiro a faz\u00ea-lo \u00e9 um homem. Mas ao que tudo indica, realmente se inicia um novo momento na hist\u00f3ria da marca, agora sob comando de Virginie Viard, desde que Lagerfeld se foi. Nessa parceria, se pode notar uma Chanel divertida, colorida, jovem, menos luxuosa e mais coerente com o momento de mundo.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_195015\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-195015\" data-attachment-id=\"195015\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/chanel-engatando-no-mercado-masculino\/img_2896\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2896.jpg?fit=600%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"600,800\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2896.jpg?fit=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2896.jpg?fit=600%2C800&amp;ssl=1\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-195015\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2896.jpg?resize=600%2C800&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2896.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/IMG_2896.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-195015\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chanel engatando no mercado masculino?<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Ainda n\u00e3o \u00e9 uma cole\u00e7\u00e3o masculina, mas, sim, sem g\u00eanero, o que deixa tudo mais interessante. \u201cGabrielle Coco Chanel n\u00e3o fazia diferencia\u00e7\u00f5es e sua marca n\u00e3o me pediu para fazer diferente quando me procurou. N\u00e3o precisa haver limites, contanto que voc\u00ea explore e heran\u00e7a deixada por ela, como Karl sempre fez. N\u00f3s n\u00e3o precisamos de paredes, precisamos de pontes\u201d, afirmou Pharrell \u00e0 Vogue US. Enquanto muitas marcas por a\u00ed est\u00e3o juntando os g\u00eaneros ou os apagando, a Chanel est\u00e1 aos poucos inserindo s\u00edmbolos socialmente entendidos como femininos no guarda-roupa masculina, deixando a cargo deles como interpretar e colaborando na quebra da masculinidade t\u00f3xica.<\/p>\n<p>A cole\u00e7\u00e3o chegou ontem (04) em lojas selecionadas da Chanel e ela marca o in\u00edcio de uma nova fase. Come\u00e7aram bem, fazendo a transi\u00e7\u00e3o de uma forma org\u00e2nica, colaborando com o \u00eddolo dos jovens antenados e sabendo ligar com expertise o estilo aos elementos da cultura pop. Resta esperar as pr\u00f3ximas cenas para ver como isso ser\u00e1 mantido&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Fotos: Reprodu\u00e7\u00e3o.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Por Let\u00edcia Santana, do Borboleta Vintage N\u00e3o \u00e9 de hoje que o mercado masculino est\u00e1 ganhando for\u00e7a na moda. Com a ascens\u00e3o do streetwear, os homens passaram a se interessar mais por esse universo e se tornaram n\u00e3o apenas clientes, mas f\u00e3s leais e engajados das marcas hype. Desde ent\u00e3o, a ind\u00fastria vem sofrendo uma [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":195017,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/agrund.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/6\/2019\/04\/a-1.jpg?fit=960%2C300&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3Hz0n-OJm","jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/195012"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=195012"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/195012\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":195018,"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/195012\/revisions\/195018"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/195017"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=195012"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=195012"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/agrund.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=195012"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}